Steel Patina New Mexico LED Sign | Wall Art

and everybody this week we're gonna be building this mountain bear New Mexico themed sign for a friend of Mines family member and it lights up let's do it so we're here at the metal rack picking out the shoot we want to use we decided on 20 gauge steel as you know it's a pretty good balance between strength and weight especially for some of us just gonna hang on the wall like this doesn't really need to be strong in fact it being light is nice because you can just hang it on a couple screws so we got 20 gauge cold-rolled they're gonna fire that up I'm generally running about a Herman forty inches a minute at 30 amps on the plasma table I'd run a little bit faster but the table starts to round off the corners once you get over about 150 so I don't do that we don't through the cutting and this whole thing was just kind of mocked up real quick but I like the way the design turned out now you're seeing that we're doing a bunch of little Pierce's like this and this is some of the worst stuff you can do for your plasma cutter you'll basically as you just see right there burn out a tip lots of Pierce's without time for the plasma cutter to run and I don't know if it's cleaning out the tip or what but anytime you're doing lots of short cuts you're gonna burn through tips a little bit faster so we do a tip change it's not that big of a deal especially with this HDPE machine cost me about eight dollars every time I do a tip change and when I do a tip change I about 90% of the time also change out the electrode just so you don't have any reason to you know keep wasting metal effectively but we jump right back into it and finish the parts out and they're they're good to go 20 gauge cutting slows I have two is a little draw see which is unfortunate but it's just kind of the cost of having a table that maxes out at a speed that's not as fast as you want to be going so I'm gonna get my buddy Jordan here a little bit of a primer on ways to grind I figured I'd leave that in the video hole can grind those you're gonna see us using this magnetic Chuck to hold the parts down it's a great addition at the shop it's not sponsored and I'll jump into it here in a minute so you want to start with the the bottom side as we cut it up first cuz it's got more roughness mm-hm then we take off now let's see yeah we're gonna skip that and just go right to a flap desk you want to pull towards you so when you do this one you'll go outward you'll work that way yeah you can float around on the piece as long as you're not a motion rection no even if you're going the wrong direction as long as not pushing down if you're putting weight into it anything more than the tools weight and you catch a burr it's either gonna bounce back and go into your stomach or you're gonna throw the part so with our lesson over we just jumped in to finishing out all these small parts and this is where that magnetic Chuck really comes and shines holding these little pieces that would just be a bear to clamp I really don't know how I got along without this thing for the five years I didn't have one so they'll be a link in the description if you're interested in getting your cell phone you guys know I'm a little loose with my grinder safety I don't use guards for the most part but one thing eyes are always on when you get a wire brush see that little wire sticking out right there that is getting ready to break off I could probably break it off am I going to and it'll go flinging if that hits your eyeball just flung off the guard would not have stopped that but appreciated that the comments section doesn't become a flame war about grinder safety but I am interested to hear y'all's thoughts on when you do and when you don't use a guard wire brushes they're one of those things that you know they don't seem like a big deal but man those little wires come flying off I'm sticking my gun and I'm sticking my arm I got hitting a lip with once they hurt so we go and clean up all the parts we're gonna be doing patina on this sign and for that you really want to get all the you know fingerprints and grease offer your parts and we're gonna clearcoat the back we wire brushed it to just kind of get a match finish this whole thing is supposed to look a little rustic so you know we didn't we didn't go to like a perfect finish cuz that's not the look we're looking for I'm using these sculpt Nouveau patinas they make a bunch of different kinds I bought some they did send me some out to try you guys should check them out if you're here and this footage of me spraying them is all gonna be in real time you see how fast this kicks off this is black magic patina which if done hot turns black and if done cold kind of turns brownish and modeled all right there's the first round yeah it's a patina just like you know when copper turns green yeah it's exactly that except it it's only a service level reaction so so after the first coat of black magic actually came back with a little bit of Japanese Brown – you know just get a little bit more color a little more variability in these mountains I think the idea were kind of going for is like a silhouette watch so we wanted a real dark color but a little bit of texture still in it and then for the bear and the Sun we're using the copper plating patina which you see how fast that goes and this stuff is cool I really like this it it always comes out looking interesting and you can do a lot with it it ends the reaction yeah it's all good and then land face down alright let that air dry for about a minute and then put a clear coat over it so we're going to snow cap the mountains a little bit and we do this all the clear coat is still slightly wet it'll kind of frost the edge we get a little bit of kind of dusting throughout the mountains from the spray that came everywhere so the patinas are gonna start to rust pretty quickly on the steel if you have them out somewhere warm or in the sunlight it's even worse but you just have to keep that in mind it's not hard to work around and it can actually add to that mottled look if that's what you're going for now with the backgrounds all drying we're gonna move over to these lightbox that we're making that's gonna contain the LEDs and stop light from leaking out the edges of the sign we're gonna put a border around this using this bring this border out of some five-eighths flat bar just so there's a little space in there for the LED strips to go and for the light to kind of bounce around a little bit who needs a press break gonna be welding all this together with the new ACP Pro pulse 220 MTS great little machine I've just got into the shops and been starting to use it now you see we're not wearing gloves we're taking a little bit of short cuts here but you know for two dozen tacks it's not a big deal you want to do any of the will be trigger it pretty much yeah it was almost good we're gonna put a little bit of an arch here for the yellow LEDs just so it kind of looks a little bit more like sunlight how much that opened up yeah in the warmth then with all that welded into place we'll move on to putting this little border and this will make sense here in a minute on to it again it's just a couple tack welds you know we're not worried about strength on something like this just hold them like a 10-pound sign up if that and again back to clear coat we're just covering everything up we're not even taking the time with this to clean everything it's gonna be an indoor sign we don't have to stress about waterproofing or anything like that now we'll move on to getting our LEDs set up this is the kind of thing a lot of people just don't appreciate the amount of time it takes to really do something right in this sort of situation but you know there's some time involved we're gonna get the LED strips out and start prepping everything instead of putting some sort of controller in this or you know making it Wi-Fi or bluetooth or any of that we're just gonna go for a straight plug in option inside the light box here we're putting one of these little connectors that has a screw down nut on the back of it and you'll see that coming up the white lights are gonna be a cool white it's it's real bright probably actually should've went with something a little dimmer but I think it looks good anyway all the connectors get pre tinned you put a little solder on the LEDs connectors and a little bit of solder on the wire and then you can just touch them together and they connect quickly and easily and then shrink-wrapped where needed now this little barrel jack connector is gonna go through that hole and we couldn't actually get in there to tighten a little nut down so how to cut a little piece of the border away and then everything is just gonna get reinforced with some superglue here's that pre tinning process you see there everything connects up real easy and I'm going to kind of run through this rapidly because there's a lot that goes into it and coming up here real soon on the channel I'm gonna be doing a full breakdown on everything about LED strips so stay tuned for that if you haven't LED strips have been a big request on patreon and I want to give a big shout out to all the guys over there supporting what I'm doing here on the channel especially Phil Myers Tyler Prescott and we'll herdin who are joined at our shop Smith's top tier you guys want to check out the benefits there'll be a link in the description so these out however you want to lay that now with the LEDs set and you know that glue drying and whatnot we're going to take the background connect it to the light box with VHB tape we've already done that and then the mountains the bear the Sun all of it also going on with VHB tape PHP is super strong once it sets up takes about man 12 hours maybe really after about 48 it's it's all the way set up you're not getting it back off without a lot of work now thanks to these little key holes we drilled in off-camera earlier Jordan's able to hang this up on some screws on the wall pretty easily and we're good to go it's got a paper cut on it now we're just gonna have a little bit of fun it's hard to get all the lights turned off in the shop because there's like already switches everywhere but give you an idea what it looks like inside and outside alright guys well if you like that one appreciate it if you hit that subscribe button there'll be a little more info on how we did this down on patreon as well as an upcoming video that patrons will get to see first on basically anything you could want to know about how to do LEDs and a sign like this and of course click right here for video YouTube things you might like thanks

13 replies on “Steel Patina New Mexico LED Sign | Wall Art”

Nice. I use guards on all my grinders. Never seen a benefit to have them off. The wire brush is awesome.. but yeah, dangerous as fuck. I’ve caught my hoodie a couple times… and it hurt like hell. LoL. Been thinking about adding a face shield to my ppe. Something about a wire or grind disk in the cheek doesnt sound fun.

not sure what software you are running, Mach 3? There are son setting that you can adjust and maybe get rid of the rounding problem at higher speeds.CV Control:

I got this from Mach3 CNC Controller Software Installation and Configuration

Plasma Mode, if checked, controls Mach3's implementation of constant velocity moves

to suit the characteristics of plasma cutters. It does anti-dive and tries not to round corners in some

circumstances. For the most part, ArtSoft USA suggests you not select this option unless your machine has very poor acceleration and poor step resolution.

CV Dist Tolerance lets you define the permissible tracking error when operating in constant velocity
mode. This will affect the amount of rounding on corners. Setting this to a high

value will allow faster movement but increase rounding

Had the same problem with my cnc router

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